Among the scores of Indian restaurants in the Little India ’hood, Muthu’s is easily the most dressed up. To boot, the kitchen more than holds up its end. The smell of spices hits you the moment you push through the front door. The menu is small (try the creamy butter chicken, and the crispy onion-flecked brinjal) with a very good vegetarian section, but the star attraction is the fish head curry. Even the small serving is a huge bowl of tart pineapple- scented sauce bathing a fleshy whole fish head. The fancy serving island – dotted with hot trays of luridly coloured curries and a hulking tandoor – offers a takeaway option. Bonus: the food comes out fast and furious.
Main courses $8-$20.
