Despite its secretive locale, Maggie Joan’s still manages to attract a stream of hungry diners. Some are drawn by the allure of its underground vibe, others come for its inventive dishes. But if you need more reasons to visit this “hidden” restaurant, its new head chef Zach Elliott-Crenn offers a few tasty ones.
The former head chef of one-Michelin-starred Portland Restaurant in London serves a unique squash financier ($4), inspired by his training as a pastry chef, that’s sweet and savoury all at once. Each fluffy morsel, made from local squash, brown butter, and almond flour, is pipped with macadamia puree and crowned with shavings of French Mimolette cheese. He follows the same playbook with the chicken liver parfait cigar ($5), where local chicken liver is stuffed into a pastry tube lined with crushed candied pistachio and quince jam. But his way with the oven shines best with the simple sourdough ($5), which needs only a simple side of French butter to be enjoyed.
Seasonally driven creations remain a highlight here. The underrated carrot is given the spotlight with the smoked carrot tartare ($20) – a spin on the usual beef, with miso, house-pickled mustard seeds and confit egg yolk. Others include the red snapper ($34) dressed simply with local greens, black garlic jam, and dash broth; and the black Angus beef ($44) with a charred, toasty note that’s mirrored in the side of glazed eggplant topped with puffed quinoa.
