Yishun, formerly known as Nee Soon, is named after the late Lim Nee Soon. He was an esteemed banker and revered community leader who once presided over the sprawling rubber and pineapple plantations that flourished in this very locale.

Yet in recent times, Yishun has suffered from a rash of bad publicity. We’ve all seen the unflattering headlines about robberies, violent crimes, and even the distressing mistreatment of animals.

But beneath this cloud of infamy lies a hidden gem. This quiet neighbourhood is filled with delicious eats, community spots, and tranquil pockets of green. For those willing to cast aside preconceptions and unravel the layers of its infamous reputation, an entirely different Yishun is ready to reveal itself.

EAT

1. Hao Bang General Wholesale Trading

Photograph: Hao Bang General Wholesale Trading

Neighbouring the famous 925 chicken rice, Hao Bang is an age-old bakery that has garnered fame through its legendary creation: the chicken floss bread. This savoury cake is brimming with egg, ham, and cheese – ready to be divided into delectable slices and shared among a band of companions.

That’s not all. This old-fashioned gem, probably the most senior of its kind in the neighbourhood, also has an array of buns, nostalgic pastries, kuehs, and festive cookies that bring back fond childhood memories.

Conveniently located within strolling distance of Yishun MRT station is Lit Lit Sin Dessert, a traditional dessert shop hidden in the depths of an unassuming coffee shop. Here, you can find irresistible cold and hot delights to comfort old-school souls without breaking the bank. For just $3.20, you can get a refreshing bowl of ice kacang adorned with a riot of jelly, atap seeds and red beans. And if warmth is what you seek, surrender to the $1.80 hot bobo chacha, richly crowned with tantalising sweet potato, taro, and sago. Our highest praise for the desserts at Lit Lit Sin? They’re not too sweet.

Smokin’ Joe sets itself apart from the bustling Western food scene with its bold use of premium meats. On the menu, you can find the likes of Iberico pork, Wagyu beef, and foie gras. And true to its name, its menu items are sizzled over an open-fire grill, releasing an aroma to awaken any discerning foodie. Go for the Spanish-inspired Iberico Secreto pork steak – it has a tempting charred exterior drenched in a luscious glaze that brings to mind a well-barbequed char siew. Meanwhile, the 200-gram Australian Wagyu ribeye’s rich marbling is edged with the right amount of smoke.

All dishes are accompanied by a side of fries, salad, and gravy that leave diners teetering between the illusion of eating at an exclusive restaurant and a humble neighbourhood hawker centre.

Located near the bus interchange, this small coffee shop sees lines forming all day long for its wallet-friendly bowl of laksa (from $2.80). In business for over two decades, it’s a secret spot for many Yishun residents. Its version of laksa is less lemak and lighter in flavour with a shrimp-heavy chilli paste that gives the gravy a real kick. While it doesn’t serve prawns, you’ll hardly miss it thanks to the inclusion of plump fishcake slices, beancurd puffs, cockles (optional), crabstick, and hard-boiled egg.

Everything is made painstakingly by hand at this wonton noodle stall at Yishun Park Hawker Centre. Every day at 2pm, owner Jim Yeoh makes a fresh batch of egg noodles. He kneads them by hand, mixing flour and eggs until it forms a smooth, elastic dough. The noodles might come topped with wontons and slices of char siew ($4.50) that Jim roasts daily, or braised beef brisket ($5.50) that’s bubbling in a pot in the kitchen. “Everything is nicer when it’s handmade,” Jim says.

The retro-looking eatery is known for its nasi ambeng which sees customers return from all over the island. At the centre of its impressive-looking dish is a mountain of rice, and portions of meat and vegetable dishes surround it. It might take a while to finish the food – which makes it more enjoyable when you have more friends sharing the platter. Try the set that comes with beef rendang (from $27.90) or prawns with green chilli (from $38.90), but the crowd favourite dish here is the sambal sotong. Eating alone? You can also get a solo nasi ambeng set ($10.80).

If you’re in the area, this nasi lemak joint is a must-try. Open from 5pm to 7am the next day, it is a popular stop for the dinner and supper crowds. Aromatic rice is served with specially marinated fried chicken wings and its signature sambal. There are many side dishes you can add on – but its spicy stirfried long beans and sambal brinjal seems to be the crowd favourite.

No neighbourhood is complete without a local ice cream parlour peddling its housemade flavours. For Holy Cow Creamery, it’s kept its customers happy with affordable cones ($3 each) in flavours like Mao Shan Wang, Miss Saigon (Vietnamese drip coffee), Sabai Sabai (Thai green tea) and Instagram-friendly creations like charcoal and melted cheddar cheese waffles.

1. Khatib Bongsu

The scenic stretch of Sungei Khatib Bongsu may start unassumingly, around the corner from Yishun Park but if you follow the path, you’ll find an idyllic area that attracts many birdwatchers, joggers, cyclists and fishing enthusiasts. Most of Khatib Bongsu is dominated by mangrove forests and mudflats.

More than just your average green space, the award-winning Yishun Nature Park – designed by Ong and Ong no less – is home to over 800 trees from 73 different species and has a unique collection of rainforest trees called the dipterocarp arboretum. For the little ones, there’s a range of playgrounds and play facilities, a nature trail (with jackfruit, coconut and rambutan trees) and rain gardens that offer educational opportunities.

Photograph: The Live Turtle and Tortoise Museum of Singapore/ Facebook

The Live Turtle and Tortoise Museum is a sanctuary for more than 200 turtles and tortoises of over 60 species, including a host of rare reptiles. Be wowed by the weird and wondrous mata-mata, fearsome alligator snapping turtles, and one 60-year-old Asian pond turtle. There’s even a double-headed, six-legged amphibian that the museum owners claimed to have found in their courtyard and nursed back to health. The museum will be open at ORTO till the end of 2023, so go before it closes!

Photograph: Tzu Chi Humanistic Youth Centre

This sustainable lifestyle market that emerged on the scene in January 2022 advocates for zero waste, zero plastic, and zero meat living. It invites visitors to exchange preloved fashion items with each other while mingling with vendors showcasing an array of eco-friendly, upcycled, or handcrafted products. Hosted inside the Tzu Chi Humanistic Youth Centre, it also runs regular themed workshops and activities.

J² Terrarium sprouted as a side pursuit nurtured by Jason and Joy, a couple fascinated by the wonders of Mother Nature and all things green. At a mere $20 per person, you can get a workshop tailored just for you. Whether it’s making terrariums, preserved flowers, or Jesmonite coaster making, they have it all. No two workshops are the same, ensuring a unique and fulfilling experience for all.

At the same time, J² Terrarium also offers ready-made terrariums, moss art frames, and DIY toolkits for those searching for the next addition to their botanical collection.

1. TribeD³ Lounge

TribeD³ is a true triple threat. On a regular day, it’s the spot for affordable set lunches for the working crowd. On weekend evening, it is a beloved haunt for families. And after 8pm, the lounge is a nocturnal haven for drinking crowds and live performances. TribeD³’s menu is equally multifaceted, coming with Asian and Western fare alongside a decent selection of drinks. Its spacious interior also presents itself as an ideal locale for a myriad of celebrations from birthday parties and baby showers to company events.

Famous Hangout is an extension of Famous Kitchen, a popular seafood restaurant by the Foo siblings whose father used to be a chef at the British navy cookhouse in the mid-19th century. Inspired by his culinary prowess, the siblings and their mother started their own zi char eatery in 1979. Today, the restaurant and its alfresco bar inside the Hong Heng Mansions are a popular destination for seafood enthusiasts. Its menu unfurls with an assortment of lobsters, crabs, and even a supersized seafood pot. The Nanyang dishes are also worth a try – check out the signature yellow chives char kway teow and oven-baked volcano chicken (pre-orders necessary). Munch on small bites at the bar to go with a wide selection of craft beers and liquors.

1. Northpoint City

Northpoint City is the largest mall in northern Singapore and the closest shopping centre to Yishun MRT. It has a diverse range of retail shops – even more after its recent revamp – and features more than 50 eateries plus a specialty food precinct called The Makan Town. Within the expansive space is also the Yishun Public Library, an education cluster, thematic shopping zones, and even a community club that’s located within the mall.

Photograph: Nelly’s Retro Snacks/ Facebook

Nelly’s Retro Snacks is a candy and biscuit store for both the young and young at heart. You’ll find lines of biscuits, sweet treats, and snacks – stored in nostalgic biscuit tins. Its enterprising owners also frequently conduct Facebook Live sales to reach out to customers that live outside of Yishun. Expect everything from nostalgic bites of iced gem biscuits to addictive tempeh chips to chase away the mid-day munchies.

Sincere Fishing Tackles is a one-stop shop for fishing essentials, offering everything that budding anglers need to embark on their next fishing adventure. From the basic rod, reed, and line, to live baits, all are sold at a competitive price. Shop owners Henry and Carol are seasoned fishing enthusiasts themselves, so don’t hesitate to strike up a conversation – you might pick up some tips about where, when, and how to achieve that coveted prize catch.

As the years have rolled by, the shop has nurtured a loyal congregation of regulars that has blossomed into a tight-knit community, embodying the very essence of the shop’s namesake – sincerity.

Siloam defies the customary assemblage of tops, bottoms, and dresses that many would expect in a neighbourhood thrift store. Over here, one may stumble upon gowns and blazers among other upmarket finds. Delights await on every corner, with clothing items that start as low as $2. If you are craving a little variety, indulge in the five-for-$5 deal that’s sure to satiate any fashion appetite. Apart from apparel, Siloam also has a section for books, vintage, children, and household goods. For each and every purchase made in the store, a portion of the proceeds finds its way to underprivileged communities in Singapore and Cambodia, providing much-needed support to those in need.